What Native Forb Seeds are Ready for Harvesting at This Time? (Late October)

At this time, the seeds of Hairy White Oldfield Aster (Symphyotrichum pilosum) are likely ready for harvest.

Hairy White Oldfield Aster emerges from the ground, flowers for six weeks (beginning week 1 of August), sets seed and disperses its seed from late October into November. It is found on forest edges, meadows, prairies, or open woodlands and readily pops up in vacant lots, fields, ditches, or anywhere there is bare soil via aggressive self-seeding. In this manner it is not always a great choice for formal flowerbeds, but can be a great addition to wildflower meadows or perennial borders to add some late-season blooms.

Photo Credit: Franco Fenaroli,
http://luirig.altervista.org/cpm/albums/bot-060/symphyotrichum-pilosum3192.jpg

Seed Collection:

Fruit is a dry seed (achene) with a tiny tuft of white hairs (pappus, whose size is less than the width of the point of a new crayon), linear-oblong in shape, slightly flattened, grayish, and faintly ribbed.

Collect them by carefully cupping your hand around the ripe seedhead (to minimize them blowing away) and cutting the plant stem with garden scissors.

Processing of Harvested Seed and Storage:

Photo Credit: https://awaytogarden.com/the-season-for-saving-seed-with-ken-druse/

Place the seedheads in a closed paper bag (to ensure that they won’t blow away) and leave them for a week or two.

After you have let them dry, finish removing the remaining seeds by plucking the individual flowers from each stem with your fingers. Discard the stems.  After you are done with the seedheads, carefully pour any remaining seeds from the paper bag used to dry the seedheads into a paper envelope for storage.

It is okay if the fluff remains attached to each seed, as it will not affect germination.  Accordingly, it is probably best not to attempt to remove the fluff from the seeds as it may be difficult to do so and you also increase the likelihood of spilling your seeds in that process.

Hairy White Oldfield Aster seeds can be stored and should remain viable for up to a couple of years in a paper envelope.

Seed requires a few months of cold/moist stratification prior to germination.

Photo Credit: https://theherbalacademy.com/cold-stratification-herb-gardening/

If you intend to grow seedlings for later transplant, place moistened peat or paper towels into a labeled ziplock bag (plant name and date) and then carefully empty the seeds from the paper bag into the ziplock bag.  Leave in the refrigerator for 3-4 months before germinating.

Propagation by Seed:

It is probably best to simply sow your harvested seeds on the surface of a prepared seed bed (seeds need light to germinate) in late fall so that the seed overwinters and germinates naturally in spring.

Peat cells are biodegradable and easy to use.
Photo Credit: valkyrieh116 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/valkyrieh116/4360193931/)

Alternatively, you may begin plants indoors after cold/moist stratification of your harvested seeds.  To do so, lightly press the seeds into top of your slightly moistened potting mix (seed needs light to germinate). Keep the soil of each container moist until germination occurs. They should not be allowed to dry out. Germination takes about two weeks.  Then transplant the contents of each container into the spots you’ve selected to establish these plants.

Seed-started plants may flower in the year that they are sown.

Hairy White Old-field Aster

Happy harvesting!

National Nut Day

Photo Credit: https://happydays365.org/international-days/national-nut-day-october/

Today is National Nut Day.

Nuts provide energy and are a primary source of nutrients; as such, they are a prized food for both humans and wildlife.  Many of them are used in cooking, eaten raw, sprouted, or roasted as a snack food, and pressed for oil that is used in cookery and cosmetics.  The fats found in nuts, for the most part, are unsaturated fats, including monounsaturated fats.  Many nuts, such as walnuts, are excellent sources of vitamins E, B2, and B9 as well as alpha-linolenic acid (or ALA, which is one of the omega-3 fatty acids, an integral part of cell membranes throughout the body).  They are also rich in protein, fiber, and essential minerals such as iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, copper, and selenium.

Since 1993, several studies have shown that those who consume nuts regularly are less likely to suffer from coronary heart disease.  Since that time, many clinical trials have also found that the consumption of various nuts can lower your concentration of serum low-density lipoprotein (or LDL, the so-called “bad” cholesterol).  Lastly, nuts have a low glycemic index (i.e., they release glucose slowly and steadily), making them a recommended snack for people with diabetes.

Some relevant factoids to drop into conversations today –

  • Nuts are classified as single-seeded fruits that have a high oil content.
  • Cashews contain more iron per gram than rump steak!
  • Walnuts are the oldest tree nuts known to humans; they were discovered in 7000 B.C.

The distinctly delicious flavor of hickory nuts makes them my personal favorite.

Photo credit: https://www.theday.com/article/20131204/ENT04/312049996

Shagbark Hickory (Carya ovata) and Pignut Hickory (Carya glabra) nuts are the most common and tastiest from the hickory trees found in our area.  For more info about how to ID these two species (and also how to ID Bitternut Hickory (Carya cordiformis), which is unpalatable), the best nutcracker to use, and some recipes to try to enjoy your harvest (including one for the pie pictured below), please view my prior post. For information about how to forage for these species and tips on how best to process the harvest you collect, please review Foraging for Wild Edibles: Hickory Nuts.

If you harvested enough hickory nuts earlier this month, I encourage you to give my pie recipe a try – perhaps as an alternative to pecan pie for your Thanksgiving gathering. Other recipes worthy of your culinary consideration can be found in my prior post Hickory nut harvest is underway!

Happy munching!

What Native Forb Seeds are Ready for Harvesting at This Time? (Mid-October)

At this time, the seeds of Tall Goldenrod (Solidago altissima ssp. altissima) are likely ready for harvest.

Tall Goldenrod emerges from the ground, flowers (beginning week 2 of August), sets seed and disperses its seed by mid- to late October. It is a native perennial flower that is found on old fields, pastures, road banks, and disturbed soil; it clearly does best in dry open areas. Tall Goldenrod often forms dense patches in successional fields and is one of our most common goldenrods. Consider using it in large borders or in a managed meadow. Tall Goldenrod develops many creeping rhizomes that cause the plant to cluster; therefore, it is not recommended for smaller planting areas.

Photo Credit: (c) 2013 Peter M. Dziuk,
https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/tall-goldenrod#lboxg-12

Seed Collection:

Tall Goldenrod ready for harvest

When looking for this particular species of goldenrod, it often has large insect galls on the mid- to upper portions of the main plant stem.

Fruit is a dry seed (cypsela) with a tuft of whitish hairs (pappus) about 1/10” long attached at the tip to allow it to be carried off in the wind.

Collect them by carefully cupping your hand around the ripe seedhead (to minimize them blowing away) and cutting the plant stem with garden scissors.

Processing of Harvested Seed and Storage:

Photo Credit: https://awaytogarden.com/the-season-for-saving-seed-with-ken-druse/

Place the seedheads in a closed paper bag (to ensure that they won’t blow away) and leave them for a week or two.

Clipped and ready to clean off stem.
Photo Credit: https://wildfoods4wildlife.com/monographs/goldenrods/

After you have let them dry, finish removing the remaining seeds by stripping each stem piece by piece through your fingers. Discard the stems.  After you are done with the seedheads, carefully pour any remaining seeds from the paper bag used to dry the seedheads into a paper envelope for storage.

It is okay if the fluff remains attached to each seed, as it will not affect germination.  Accordingly, it is probably best not to attempt to remove the fluff from the seeds as it may be difficult to do so and you also increase the likelihood of spilling your seeds in that process.

Photo Credit: (c) 2016 MinnesotaWildflowers.info,
https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/tall-goldenrod#lboxg-7

Tall Goldenrod seeds can be stored and should remain viable for up to a couple of years in a paper envelope.

Seed requires two months of cold/moist stratification prior to germination.

Photo Credit: https://theherbalacademy.com/cold-stratification-herb-gardening/

If you intend to grow seedlings for later transplant, place moistened peat or paper towels into a labeled ziplock bag (plant name and date) and then carefully empty the seeds from the paper bag into the ziplock bag.  Leave in the refrigerator for 60 days before germinating.

Propagation by Seed:

It is probably best to simply sow your harvested seeds on the surface of a prepared seed bed (seeds need light to germinate) in late fall so that the seed overwinters and germinates naturally in spring.

Peat cells are biodegradable and easy to use.
Photo Credit: valkyrieh116 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/valkyrieh116/4360193931/)

Alternatively, you may begin plants indoors after cold/moist stratification of your harvested seeds.  To do so, lightly press the seeds into top of your slightly moistened potting mix (seed needs light to germinate). Keep the soil of each container moist until germination occurs. They should not be allowed to dry out. Germination takes about two weeks.  Then transplant the contents of each container into the spots you’ve selected to establish these plants.

Seed-started plants may flower in the year that they are sown.

Happy harvesting!

What Native Forb Seeds are Ready for Harvesting at This Time? (October)

At this time, the seeds of Turtlehead (Chelone glabra) are likely ready for harvest.

Turtlehead blooms for approximately four weeks (beginning in week 1 of September), sets fruit and then its seeds become ripened in October. It can be found in swamps, marshes, ditches, and wet thickets. This perennial herbaceous plant makes an excellent choice for wetland plantings or the edges of ponds or streams. Once established, Turtlehead spreads slowly over time from short rhizomes and self-seeding.

Photo Credit: (c) 2009 K. Chayka,
https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/white-turtlehead#lboxg-4

Seed Collection:

PLEASE NOTE:  Turtlehead (Chelone glabra) is protected under New York State Law. It is a violation of the Environmental Conservation Law §9-1503 to collect or destroy listed plants without the permission of the landowner. The regulation gives landowners additional rights to prosecute people who collect plants without permission.

Pea-shaped seed capsules may follow the flowers, starting out green and then turning brown and splitting open when mature, containing a number of medium brown to dark brown seeds, each about 1/8 inch wide and pointed at the ends.

Photo credit: (c) 2009 K. Chayka,
https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/white-turtlehead#lboxg-3

Seed is easily collected by collecting the brown seedheads before their individual capsules open.

To harvest seed from Turtlehead, carefully hold the stalk below the seedhead and cut the stalk below your hand, using garden scissors. Note that a single cluster of capsules will contain numerous seeds. Without turning the seedheads upside down, move the seedhead into a paper bag.

Processing of Harvested Seed and Storage:

Photo Credit: https://awaytogarden.com/the-season-for-saving-seed-with-ken-druse/

Place the seed capsules in a closed paper bag and leave them for a week or so.

Then, over a paper plate, pick up the seedheads from the bag, and just gently and carefully crush them on the plate. The seeds should then easily spill out. To separate the chaff from the seeds, use a mesh strainer.

Photo Credit: https://botanicallyinclined.org/fridays-seeds-the-turtleheads-chelone/

After you are done processing the seedheads, carefully pour any remaining seeds from the paper bag used to dry the seedheads into a paper envelope for storage.

Turtlehead seeds can be stored and should remain viable for 1-2 years in a paper envelope.

Seed requires three to four months of cold/moist stratification prior to germination.

Photo Credit: https://theherbalacademy.com/cold-stratification-herb-gardening/

Place moistened peat or paper towels into a labeled ziplock bag (plant name and date) and then carefully empty the seeds into the ziplock bag.  Leave in the refrigerator for 3-4 months before germinating.

Propagation by Seed:

It is probably best to simply sow your harvested seeds in late fall so that the seed overwinters and germinates naturally in spring.  Seed should be sown on the surface (they require light for germination).

Peat cells are biodegradable and easy to use.
Photo Credit: valkyrieh116 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/valkyrieh116/4360193931/)

Alternatively, you may begin plants indoors after cold/moist stratification of your harvested seeds.  To do so, seeds should be placed on the surface of your potting mix (they require light for germination). Keep the soil of each container moist until germination occurs. They should not be allowed to dry out. Germination requires 3-5 weeks. Then transplant the contents of each container into the spots you’ve selected to establish these plants.

Seed-started plants will likely flower two years after sowing.

To learn more about this native wildflower, please view my prior post What Wildflower Begins Blooming This Week? (Sept week 1), published on 9/4/2021.

Happy harvesting!

Fall Fruits Quiz

As the annual fall colors continue to reveal themselves across our landscape, I wanted to offer this quiz for you. If you’ve taken my similar quizzes in the past, you’ll remember some of these images. But, you’ll also see many new ones in this expanded version. Have fun!

Click on each photo to enlarge the image.

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Seize the opportunity to stroll through your favorite local nature preserve or park and see how many of these autumn treasures await your discovery.

Enjoy autumn!

What Native Forb Seeds are Ready for Harvesting at This Time? (October)

At this time, the seeds of Blue Vervain (Verbena hastata) are likely ready for harvest.

Blue Vervain blooms for approximately six weeks (beginning in week 4 of June), sets fruit and then its seeds become ripened in October. It can be found in moist meadows in floodplain woodlands, soggy thickets, fence rows, and along borders of rivers, ponds, marshes, ditches, and pastures. It is perfect for backyard ponds along pond edges. Once established, Blue Vervain spreads slowly through rhizomes and self-seeding.

Photo Credit: https://www.ernstseed.com/product/blue-vervain-pa-ecotype/

Seed Collection:

Flowers are replaced by small nutlets (4 nutlets per flower), which are each up to 1/10 inch long, reddish brown, and oblong in shape. You must wait until the entire seedhead and much of the stem is brown and dry before the seeds are ready for harvesting.

To harvest seed from Blue Vervain, carefully hold the stalk below the seedhead and cut the stalk below your hand, using garden scissors. Note that a single cluster of seedheads will probably contain well over 1,000 seeds. Without turning the seedheads upside down, move the seedhead into a paper bag.

Processing of Harvested Seed and Storage:

Photo Credit: https://awaytogarden.com/the-season-for-saving-seed-with-ken-druse/

Place the seedheads in a closed paper bag and leave them for a week or so.

Then, over a paper plate, pick up the seedheads from the bag, and just gently and carefully tap them on the plate. The seed will easily fall out. After you are done with the seedheads, carefully pour any remaining seeds from the paper bag used to dry the seedheads into a paper envelope for storage.

Photo Credit: https://heartlandseed.com/product/blue-vervain-verbena-hastata/

Blue Vervain seeds can be stored and should remain viable for 1-2 years in a paper envelope.

Seed requires one to three months of cold/moist stratification prior to germination.

Photo Credit: https://theherbalacademy.com/cold-stratification-herb-gardening/

Place moistened peat or paper towels into a labeled ziplock bag (plant name and date) and then carefully empty the seeds into the ziplock bag.  Leave in the refrigerator for 6-8 weeks before germinating.

Propagation by Seed:

It is probably best to simply sow your harvested seeds in late fall so that the seed overwinters and germinates naturally in spring.  To do so, simply press your harvested seeds into the soil surface of the area that you have prepared for planting.

Peat cells are biodegradable and easy to use.
Photo Credit: valkyrieh116 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/valkyrieh116/4360193931/)

Alternatively, you may begin plants indoors after cold/moist stratification of your harvested seeds.  To do so, press the seeds into the surface of your potting mix. Keep the soil of each container moist until germination occurs. They should not be allowed to dry out. Germination requires 2-4 weeks. Then transplant the contents of each container into the spots you’ve selected to establish these plants.

Seed-started plants will likely flower the year after sowing.

Blue Vervain

To learn more about this native wildflower, please view my prior post What Wildflower Begins Blooming This Week? (June week 4), published on 6/26/2021.

Happy harvesting!

Foraging for Wild Cranberries

Around the time of Indigenous Peoples Day is a great time each year locally to head to the nearest bog in search of wild cranberries.

If you are not aware of the location of a bog, read this helpful article about how to determine if/where one may be located near you.

Before heading out onto a bog, please be sure to become acquainted with “myth vs. fact” about this unique habitat.  Also, be prepared for cold weather during your harvest.  I’ve often found myself sitting amongst frost-laden bushes while my feet were submerged in ice-cold water.  Mind you, I was wearing chest waders each time, but still – cold!

There are two species of wild cranberry:

Large Cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon)

Small Cranberry (Vaccinium oxycoccos)

Both are best picked when ripened (as with any fruit) and they both have the same excellent flavor.  The different common names simply refer to the relative size of the fruit of each species.  Most of what you’ll find will likely be noticeably smaller than those you buy in your local grocery store, but I believe they have a much deeper flavor.

Photo Credit: http://the3foragers.blogspot.com/2013/10/wild-cranberries-identified.html

Cranberry fruit grow from a short stem that occasionally emerges from the same spot along the plant stem where the leaves also emerge.  The fruit seems almost freakishly large in comparison to the wiry stem that support them, but the fruit are also incredibly light since they are hollow.  One to three berries grow from each woody stem, and they are easy to pick.  When you find a patch of ripe cranberries, be sure to take some time to comb through the sphagnum that likely surrounds the base of each plant.  I often find that more fruit lies close to the ground, hidden among the tangle of leafy stems.

Cranberries ripen from pink to red and can persist through several autumn frosts.  They are crisp when fresh and soften once they have been frozen.

Cranberries are acidic and tart tasting, high in pectin and vitamin C, and they also contain beta carotene and anthocyanins.

After collecting these beautiful ruby berries, toss them into a sinkful of water to rinse them, but more so to remove the debris you inevitably also gathered – leaves, stems and, likely, the occasional piece of sphagnumRead about sphagnum and learn more about the unique habitat where it dwells.

Inside each berry are several very small, light brown seeds sprinkled throughout the partially hollow interior, along with the pinkish-white flesh that is spongy and light. 

Whole cleaned berries store well in the freezer for up to 12 months.  Once frozen, however, you’ll definitely only want to use them in something that you cook or bake as they will become mushy once thawed.  I typically use the frozen whole berries in either pumpkin bread or banana bread – a fun pop of flavor!

Recipes for your consideration:

Smoky gold fall color of Tamarack (Larix laricina)

Happy foraging!